18/20 - Palomino from the Pago de Maina vineyard. Aged for almost ten years in very old 600-litre oak casks. Deep gold colour. And wow, this is a beauty. It smells floral, headily so, of linden blossom and philadelphus. It smells so beautiful that it's hard to move the glass from nose to mouth. It's delicate but powerful, in the way that the sound of a single violin can fill an enormous concert hall and send goosebumps tingling down five thousand spines. Every molecule is wrought with bitterness, lamellar sweetness slipped membrane thin between hazelnut and thyme, pepper-salt and the deep copper tang of iodine. It's dry with a soft rasp of texture but the flavours orbit in an almost dreamy tension, filling the mouth with a sense of roundness and breath-holding richness. And then the finish explodes with a crack of lightning. How a wine this complex is only £30, I do not know. VGV (Very Good Value)