Lots of lean muscle converts into flavour power: pure blackcurrant and chocolate, sage, plum and espresso, all bound in a graphite tannic grip. Coming from a drier vintage, the density of serious fruit weight equates to intensity, and the flavour clarity persists and resonates long after the last note strikes. Think of that final piano chord in The Beatles’ A Day In The Life. Captivating! Drinking Window 2020 - 2050.

These John Riddoch wines are, with each passing year, more approachable, more supple and more lithe on release. Coonawarra has a reputation in Australia for producing extraordinarily long-lived Cabernet Sauvignons, which are not necessarily approachable early. Well. These modern wines buck that trend. The refined oak program has actually done something to support the fruit and elevate it rather than weigh it down—a result of many years of research and work by the Wynns team, particularly winemaker Sarah Pigeon. So, to the wine. This 2016 John Riddoch Limited Release Cabernet Sauvignon offers five spice, mulberry, raspberry salted licorice, clove, tobacco leaf, a hint of nag champa tobacco, jasmine tea and brilliant length—I wrote the note off the length. These wines should be measured by their balance, and their ability to age. In this case, also by its beauty as a young wine. Drink it now, but you're better served by exercising a little patience and drinking from 2026 through to the late 2040s and beyond.