18/20 - Intoxicating and promising kerosene-like notes but just as prominent is the intense grapefruit aroma. Mouth-filling richness, the sweetness perfectly balanced by the acidity so that it flows cooly across the palate. Peach and apricot sorbet on the finish. Pure pleasure, and not as sweet-tasting as you might expect. Drink 2022-2035

92/100 - Candied, spiced apple and overripe Persian melon dominate the Prum 2011 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese gold capsule, with honeyed impingement both aromatically and on the palate reinforcing the sense of relative opacity and rounded richness that the other Graachers in this year’s collection displayed. Here the sense of delicacy is nearly weightless; intriguing and enticing notes of liquid peony and lily enter the picture mid-palate after the wine takes on air; and for all of the botrytization in effect, there is a welcome retention of primary juiciness, spurring a lusciously long finish. Look for four decades or more of luxuriant satisfaction. Drink 2013-2053