The rise of Spain and how it is breaking tradition and creating a ‘new’ identity
Spain’s leading producers are evolving beyond traditional expectations, combining heritage with innovation to create wines that feel more relevant than ever for the modern on-trade.
Spain has long been defined by tradition, with established regions and classic styles shaping its global identity. But today, many of its most respected producers are taking a different approach, building on that heritage while rethinking how their wines are grown, made and positioned.
This is not about replacing tradition, but refining it. Across Spain, producers are using new techniques, focusing more closely on terroir and adopting progressive environmental practices to create wines that feel more precise, expressive and commercially relevant.
Alma Carraovejas: redefining tradition through knowledge and sustainability
At Alma Carraovejas, innovation is used to enhance, rather than replace, tradition. Detailed data mapping, parcel analysis and vineyard monitoring inform decision making, bringing a more precise, knowledge-led approach to viticulture. This sits alongside a strong commitment to sustainability, with initiatives focused on soil regeneration, biodiversity and ecological balance across the estate, reflected in its B-Corp certification. The group has also expanded beyond a single winery model, developing a portfolio of terroir-driven projects. The result is a modern interpretation of Spanish winemaking, where heritage is supported by insight and long term thinking. Bodegas Verum: elevating the potential of Castilla-La Mancha Bodegas Verum is helping to shift perceptions of Castilla-La Mancha, a region more commonly associated with volume production.
By focusing on quality and expression, the estate demonstrates what is possible when regional identity is combined with a more considered approach. Traditional elements, such as the use of clay amphora, sit alongside modern winemaking techniques to create wines with both character and structure. There is also a clear focus on lesser known local varieties, bringing new attention to grapes that have historically been overlooked in international markets.
Bodega Cerrón: restoring vineyards and rethinking regional identity
In Jumilla, Bodega Cerrón is challenging long held perceptions of the region through a focus on site, altitude and farming. Working in Fuente Álamo, one of the highest parts of the appellation, Carlos Cerdán is restoring old vineyards and applying biodynamic practices to improve soil health and vine balance. Organic compost, produced locally by the estate’s goat herd, plays a key role in enriching the land.
The resulting wines show freshness and salinity, offering a different expression of Jumilla that reflects both place and a more considered approach to viticulture.
Cuentaviñas: a new expression of Rioja
Cuentaviñas, led by Eduardo Eguren, represents a more contemporary interpretation of Rioja, rooted in one of the region’s most established winemaking families.
The project focuses on organic viticulture and a lighter touch in the cellar. By moving away from heavy oak and extraction, and instead using larger, older barrels and amphora, the wines retain structure while showing greater freshness and clarity.
The emphasis on storytelling, reflected in the name itself, ties together vineyard, vintage and winemaking decisions. This approach is already gaining recognition, with Cuentaviñas El Tiznado awarded 100 points by Tim Atkin.
Reputation meets evolution
Spain’s global reputation continues to grow, with the latest “World’s Most Admired Wine Brands” listing placing Spain ahead of both France and Italy with 13 entries. It is a clear signal of the momentum behind the category and the constant emergence of world class producers that we are proud to represent. Our Iberian portfolio reflects this strength, built over many years of careful curation to cover the full spectrum of the category, from boutique amphora wines to fine estate bottlings and commercial by the glass propositions.
This evolution was recently brought to life at our Spirit of Iberia event at The Lanesborough, where we showcased a selection of producers redefining the category. Bringing together customers and suppliers in one room, the event highlighted the depth, diversity and growing relevance of Spain and Portugal for the on-trade, with a clear focus on wines that combine regional identity with a more progressive approach to viticulture and winemaking.
“Something that stands out to me is a quote from Edu Eguren of Cuentaviñas, "I want to make wines with a false sense of lightness". What he means is that in his home of Rioja, he will never be able to make a good red wine of 12% ABV. But what he can do is create a harmonious balanced wine which gives the impression of something lighter, more elegant and with the signature finesse the Eguren family are so renowned for. I think this is an ethos that many winemakers are trying to adopt, whether in Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Jumilla or elsewhere. Needless to say, Edu has achieved this and his 100 point El Tiznado is the proof!”
Every producer earns its place, from Alma Carraovejas and Bodegas Verum to Bodega Cerrón and Cuentaviñas, reflecting a portfolio that balances heritage, innovation and modern relevance for today’s on-trade.
Across these producers, a clear theme emerges. Spain is not moving away from its heritage, but building on it with greater precision, sustainability and intent. For the on-trade, this creates an opportunity to present Spain in a new light, offering wines that combine authenticity with a modern edge, helping to drive engagement and unlock new opportunities on the list.